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Printing a Pi 5 case that actually breathes (and survives a garage in July)

PLA versus PETG versus ASA, the settings I use, and why the pretty hexagon lid had to go

Gwen Albright@gwenprints

October 2, 2026 · 3 min read

Hi all! This is the long version of a story that starts with a sad, droopy Pi case (my own (I'm the enclosure lady, I know)).

In July my garage hit 38°C for a week. My Pi 5 lives out there running OctoPrint for the printers, in a case I printed in PLA two years ago. By the end of that week the lid had sagged in the middle like a hammock, and the Pi was throttling every afternoon. So I redesigned it properly, and here's everything I learned.

Material: PLA is not for hot places

  • PLA starts going soft around 55-60°C. A Pi under load warms its own case, and a hot garage or a car or a sunny window gets you there quickly. Fine for an indoor desk Pi. Not for anything else.
  • PETG is good to about 75-80°C, easy to print, a little stringy. This is what I use now for anything indoors-but-warm.
  • ASA handles heat and UV, so it's the one for outdoor stuff (Matt's letterbox, I'm looking at you). It wants an enclosure on the printer and decent ventilation because of the fumes.

My PETG settings

On my printer (0.4 mm nozzle), these have been reliable for a year:

  • Nozzle 240°C, bed 80°C
  • 0.2 mm layers, 4 walls (walls matter more than infill for a case)
  • 25% gyroid infill
  • Part cooling fan 30-50%, and off for the first layer
  • Glue stick on smooth PEI as a release layer. PETG sticks to smooth PEI so well it can rip chunks out of the sheet (ask my first sheet (RIP))

Screws, not snap fits

The Pi's mounting holes are M2.5 on a 58 × 49 mm rectangle. I put brass M2.5 heat-set inserts into the base with a soldering iron (around 245°C for PETG, a steady push, let it sink by itself, don't force it). The lid is held on with four M2.5 screws.

And here's my soapbox moment (you knew it was coming): print cases with screws, not snap fits you glue shut. The next person (who might be you, in two years, at 11pm) should be able to open it with a screwdriver. Repairability starts with the enclosure.

Airflow: the hexagons had to go

My first redesign had a gorgeous honeycomb lid. Lovely. I tested it before installing it, which I recommend:

sudo apt install stress-ng
stress-ng --cpu 4 --timeout 600 &
watch -n 2 vcgencmd measure_temp

With the official Active Cooler and the honeycomb lid: 74°C after ten minutes in a 31°C garage. The honeycomb looked open but the actual open area right above the fan was tiny, and the side had no exit for the hot air. Version 3 has a plain round opening right over the cooler's fan and long slots along the side where the heatsink fins push air out. Same test: 61°C max. Less pretty. Much happier Pi.

Quick checklist if you're designing your own

  1. Material for the hottest place it will ever be, not where you're sitting now
  2. Open area directly above the fan, and a clear exit path for the hot air
  3. Heat-set inserts and screws
  4. Leave access to the USB-C, the HDMI ports, the SD slot and the GPIO header, even if you think you won't need them (you will)
  5. Test with stress-ng before you call it done

Happy to share the files if anyone wants them (they're not fancy (but they're open)).

Written by

Gwen Albright

3D printing, PCB design, and fixing things the manufacturer said couldn't be fixed. hardware tinkerer, 44, portland. right to repair or bust 🔧

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Comments

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Jaxon Pearce@j4x0n_mods#9 in Pi Lab
can u share the files bro, we have a printer at school and my pi lives in a cardboard box rn 💀
4 net votes
Gwen Albright@gwenprints#4 in Pi Lab
Of course! Sending you a link now. (Cardboard is a bold choice (please don't run stress-ng in it).)
2 net votes
Leo Chen 陈立@szhw_leo#8 in Pi Lab
For small batch over 500 pieces we do injection mold, but for 10 to 50 piece, PETG print like this is cheaper and good enough. Nice work.
1 net votes
Trey Robinson@techwithtrey3 rep in Pi Lab
Gwen designing a repairable case and somehow roasting me in my own head the whole time I read it. Here's the thing, she's right. I'm adding a repairability score to the next review 📦
0 net votes
Gwen Albright@gwenprints#4 in Pi Lab
Trey, I'm going to screenshot this and hold you to it (lovingly).
0 net votes
Daan Visser@daan_fpga4 rep in Pi Lab
Good guide. For the inserts I also use around 245 in PETG, and one more tip: make the hole a little bit tapered in the CAD, then the insert goes in straight by itself. Mine were always a little crooked before.
1 net votes
Nicolás Benítez@nicobenitez1 rep in Pi Lab
Perdón, uso traductor. Very good Gwen. I print PETG at 235 with the fan at 40%, almost the same as you. In Rosario in summer my workshop reaches 38 degrees, PLA there no way, it bends in one week. Screws and not glue, I agree 100%, I fix things that the manufacturer glued closed every day.
3 net votes
Gwen Albright@gwenprints#4 in Pi Lab
Nico! (Also via translator for the Spanish bit:) ¡Gracias! 235 with 40% fan is a great setting, I might steal it for my second printer. And yes, the glued-shut stuff is the worst (the manufacturers know exactly what they're doing).
3 net votes
Matt O'Brien@pi_tinker_matt#1 in Pi Lab
"Material for the hottest place it will ever be, not where you're sitting now" should be printed on every spool. And yes, guilty on the letterbox. ASA v3 is happening, you've shamed me into it 🍓
2 net votes